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1,869 Posts in 721 Topics by 4,406 Members
Latest Member: RobertSaulk
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 41 
 on: November 29, 2015, 12:12:29 PM 
Started by jland47 - Last post by Misty
While it can be accomplished in that fashion, it will work against you during day to day usage.  It will take longer to heat your room and there may be routine temperature fluctuations leaving a less than comfortable environment and leading to frequent complaints.  You should speak with one of our Commercial Specialists at 800/707-2862 to assist with every question you have throughout the renovation.

 42 
 on: December 30, 2015, 04:15:10 PM 
Started by tedp - Last post by tedp
I have a MS300 and Tempo Control (I understand they are out of production) that was working well before my remodel.

Now, when I apply power, all I see on the controller is 7uF (which I can change to 7uC via the arrows) and that is all I can do. If I press the on/off or pause for an extended period, I get a display that says "r005" and then resets itself back to 7uF. Otherwise, the controller seems unresponsive.

I called Mr. Steam tech support and got some marginally useful feedback: I moved some jumpers and verifed the MS300 can produce steam. However, there seems to be no further steps to take to troubleshoot the controller issue.

Are there additional steps (I have access to a voltmeter) to isolate and/or repair the issue?

Thanks

 43 
 on: December 28, 2015, 12:14:07 PM 
Started by Ncolstad - Last post by Ncolstad
Hello Steamist experts!

I bought a new SMC-120 switch on 12/28/15 for my SM-46 steamist. This was recommended by the steamist technician on phone. bought it, installed it, siliconed it, water tight. all good.

Since installing new switch, the system worked fine for about a month...

Now the switch won't turn on. The unit won't come on. There is power to the unit. (redlight in unit is on). I tried reset button in unit. no change. turned breaker off/on. no change.

Actual symptoms from yesterday:

1.   System turned on
2.   System shut off on its own after about 10 min use and blue light on switch went out.
3.   After shower was over, the unit turned on all by itself… weird… and the blue light was on the switch. So I pressed the switch and turned it off.

thanks for any suggestions or advice.

NC

here is my original post from a month ago is below:

I have a SM-46 system and the system is acting up...

I spoke to Steamist tech guys and they recommended I purchase a new switch (Sm-120)

I installed it using the existing cable. But nothing has changed.

Here are the symptoms we had with the old switch and the new switch.

1. Sometimes it turns on and off - as expected...

2. Other times it will turn on, but won't turn off - and light on control unit remains on...Forcing me to switch off the breaker (in basement)

3. Other times, it turns off by itself after about 10 minutes and I can't turn it back on, but then in about 5 minutes later, it turns on by itself.


Thanks for any help or direction.




 44 
 on: December 25, 2015, 09:36:14 AM 
Started by bsanva - Last post by bsanva
I have finished my steam room except the door. Through Lowe's I contacted Kohler and they have steam doors that are frame less but there is no seal, although that can be added. But as I do more research, I notice all of the pictures of frame less steam doors have no seal. Now my steam generator is more than powerful enough to handle the room with an unsealed door. But what is the difference between a frame less steam door and a frame less shower door?

The only glass would be the rough opening of 35.5 * 78.5 door. It seems like a pretty easy install and I am a little overwhelmed by the price they are asking. If the amount of steam is not an issue, what are my options? Do I have to buy a door with a frame? If I can go frame less, what is the difference between a thick solid glass door and a thick solid glass steam door. And if there is any advice on where I could buy an easy to install door at a reasonable price.

I appreciate any input.

 45 
 on: December 18, 2015, 01:01:06 PM 
Started by WhiskerBiscuit - Last post by WhiskerBiscuit
Disclaimer:  I know enough about everything just to be dangerous  Smiley. However in this case I've already disconnected the power with the pull clip circuit breaker at the box so I'm safe enough except for some scraped knuckles.

Anyhow, my SM-11 has been taking 45 minutes to get to temp.  My repair person replaced the water sensor and that didn't fix it.  I called Steamist and their TS guy, Mike (very helpful btw) told me it was probably the element and I could check it and replace it myself.

I've opened the unit up but am a bit lost as to which pairs I should check to see if of of the elements have gone bad.  Can you guys help me out by circling the pairs using different colors so I can check?  Mike said I should be getting 5-40 ohms.



And just to be sure, which setting should I be using?


ETA:  it looks like something melted.  I'm not getting any error codes, but would still like to test with the ohm meter.  I tried the two posts in this picture but nothing happened. (Meter read 1). I tried it for the other posts and got a 1 as well, so I think I'm doing something wrong.


 46 
 on: December 08, 2015, 04:50:41 PM 
Started by WhiskerBiscuit - Last post by WhiskerBiscuit
Is there something inside the panel that might show error codes?  I can't find any documentation that suggests there is.

 47 
 on: December 06, 2015, 11:44:01 PM 
Started by WhiskerBiscuit - Last post by WhiskerBiscuit
The problem started a couple of days ago.  I had some static electricity built up and when going to turn the unit on I zapped the panel inside the shower and it looked dead.  30 seconds later I tried again and it worked just fine.  Then a few days later I started it up again, and no problem.  During that shower, I turned off the unit as I wanted to add some essential oil to the steam head reservoir.  After I turned it on again, I noticed that I was getting a diminished output of steam.

Today, I went to turn it on and after 10 minutes the temperature was only at 90 degrees, where before it would be easily up to 108.  I cycled the power breaker just for kicks.  I'm getting the usual noises, though maybe less often in frequency.  Eventually it does heat up to 108, but it takes about 20 minutes longer than normal.

Do yo have any ideas as to what the culprit might be?  If I had to hazard a guess, it would be somethings clogged or restricting the water flow.  Is there a way to purge the system?

ETA: I cracked open the access panel and saw the model number.

Any suggestions on what I should try before calling in a pro?

 48 
 on: November 29, 2015, 12:13:43 PM 
Started by rbc - Last post by rbc
Water fill function is not working and there is no steam.  If I short out the water level sensor wire with the ground, water flows into the unit.  How do I test whether the issue is with the water level sensor probe or the circuit board?  Also, how do I test the heating element.  Even with the water level in the tank filled, the heating element is not making steam. 

 49 
 on: November 19, 2015, 03:54:52 PM 
Started by jland47 - Last post by jland47
We are currently looking at remodeling our steam room, (for commercial use, a GYM) however, the cost look really high to have it re-tiled.  I was wondering if there are any other options for the wall/ ceiling materials to construct it out of.  I know the floor needs a pan but, couldn't you just waterproof the walls and seal a mortar on the walls, maybe?  Just trying not to spend $15k  Embarrassed

 50 
 on: November 10, 2015, 06:40:35 AM 
Started by whittier - Last post by Misty
While it could be done, we would strongly recommend against it.  We can certainly assist you with achieving a safe and comfortable steam room within whatever constraints you may have.  Please reach out to our Technical Bathing Specialists at 800-707-2862 for assistance with every step of the process.

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