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1,854 Posts in 716 Topics by 3,622 Members
Latest Member: WilliamKige
+  SteamSaunaBath User Forum
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 on: May 14, 2015, 12:09:08 PM 
Started by enterpriseresale - Last post by Misty
The attic installation is no problem as long as there is no risk of the equipment freezing and you leave yourself sufficient access for any service needs.  If you are not creating any traps in the steam line, then your piping run will not be a concern either from what you are describing.  As for pitching the steam line toward the steam head, that is to help purge any water/condensate that may accumulate in the steam line and prevent it from "spitting" out of the steam head while you are bathing as this can be uncomfortable.  We would love to see pictures of your completed steam shower, you can upload them here.

 on: May 14, 2015, 10:51:48 AM 
Started by enterpriseresale - Last post by enterpriseresale
I had read that putting the steam unit in the attic is ok if insulated.  I have space above the shower to install it.  Looking at the manual it says the steam pipe needs a pitch 1/4 per foot towards steam head?  Also that it can't go down then up because it would trap steam.
My set up would only go down to the base of shower not up again.  The line would be a lot less then the 25 feet recommended.  Probably only 10 to 12 ft
Will this still work?  I already had wiring, drain, and water plumbed to this area in the attic above shower

 on: May 06, 2015, 08:40:08 AM 
Started by ArtLaw - Last post by miltonblackwoodrw5
Just a heads up, you can use tubs inside a steam room. They add more benefits to a person's health and it gives the best bath experience. Just a plain tub would do the trick. It relieves stress and strains of daily life and it has therapeutic effects that treats diverse areas of the body. Depending on what you prefer, some people are very sophisticated on what kind or design the hot tubs are. I am a hot tub owner and I am satisfied with my hot tub which I bought at Aqualine Hot Tubs. Sorry for the late reply though.

 on: March 16, 2015, 02:28:58 PM 
Started by the_7th_samurai - Last post by the_7th_samurai

Am in the design stages of building a stand-alone exterior sauna (approx dimensions being 8x8x7).  Will be constructing a mostly cedar structure that will be built with Eastern White cedar (2x4, 2x6, clapboard siding, and tongue & groove 1x4 interior boards).

I've seen several designs that use a similar stick construction with insulation between the studs and foil vapour barrier beneath the tongue and groove interior boards.  In respect to the floor design, since the sauna will not be flush to the ground (in order to construct it at the same height as my existing deck), a concrete floor is not an option.  Instead, I'll be framing a typical 2x6 or 2x8 joist floor. 

My question is if I should build the floor with foil vapour barrier and cedar tongue and groove boards, the same way as the walls or if this would be problematic down the road.  See picture example below:

I'll be installing an 8 to 10 kw heater that will be used for wet sauna use.  Will the cedar floor work in this application or should I explore some sort of rubber or vinyl sub-flooring with removable cedar decking on top?

Thanks for looking.

 on: March 16, 2015, 11:56:00 AM 
Started by Kalle - Last post by albiomantra
i love this product, i am an allergic patient since 11 years but now i am using a salt lamp and......... i am perfect. lolz.

 on: March 14, 2015, 08:08:08 AM 
Started by bullet - Last post by bullet
pouring water, no steam,how to test or bypass level probe

 on: February 26, 2015, 10:56:14 PM 
Started by Fran - Last post by miltonblackwoodrw5
Hi! It's a great question, for me, I prefer a regular saunas, because it's designed to be a place wherein people can freely experience the dry or a wet heat session. Depending on the size of the room, it can fit a single person or more. If itís a small room, it can be for one person only up to two at a time.

 on: January 31, 2015, 09:34:26 AM 
Started by Alex White - Last post by Alex White
I am building a new steam shower. Will gut the existing bathroom out and looking for suggestions from service providers on the options. It will be a 5 feet wide, 5 feet long and 8 feet tall.
The entrance will be from the 5 feet side. The entrance and one wall will be glass made. I am looking for recommendations on the glass professionals as well. The rest of the walls and the ceiling will be tiled with proper insulation done by a tile professional that I already have.

I am looking for a recommendation on the unit to create steam and a professional who can install all of these items. The house is in Upstate NY about 60 miles from the city.

 on: January 28, 2015, 02:13:48 PM 
Started by belmont1999 - Last post by Rooster
 I have a similar problem with a fiat shower, however the lights do not turn on the control panel. Any assistance is appreciated!


 on: January 21, 2015, 07:02:37 PM 
Started by alansanmateo - Last post by alansanmateo
Hi. I am remodeling an existing shower and adding a Mr. Steam unit.  I need lighting.

The shower is 36 inches x 40 inches, so it's a small one.  But big enough for one person to take a steam, seated on a little teak stool, I think. There is a window adjacent to the shower, so the shower does not "need" lighting during daylight hours. A t night, the bathroom has lighting at the sink, which is across from the steamshower, so some of that light will spill into the shower.  You don't "need" a light in the shower to shower at night, right now, though I realize you may want/need light when the steam shower is full of steam.

I like the Bathology lights, but because the shower is so small it seems that the Spectrum 510 system is overkill.  Do I need to buy this system to have even just two Spectrum lights?

I believe two fixtures would suffice for this shower, but I am concerned that the LED light, when on "white" would not be an aesthetically pleasing light.  Consequently we are wondering if we could do one halogen light and one LED color-shifting light.

I am interested in one Brilliance 410 LED RGB color ceiling light, and the hardware needed to operate it.
Also, can we use a Spectrum 310 with a 410?
If that is not possible, then my inclination is a system with two LEDs that shift color, and no halogen/true white.

I'm also somewhat unhappy at having multiple panels/switches in my shower:  one for the lighting and one for the steam unit operation.  Perhaps I should have bought a bigger control panel from Mr.Steam (to also handle the lighting), though that wasn't what I wanted to do at the time (and I am not recalling if that is even available from Mr. Steam).

I need to resolve this ASAP as we have already demo'd the shower and it won't be long before construction really starts and the pieces are needed.

I appreciate anyone's thoughts.


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