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1,890 Posts in 727 Topics by 6,844 Members
Latest Member: JamesVog
+  SteamSaunaBath User Forum
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 81 
 on: October 07, 2015, 06:34:38 AM 
Started by chschram - Last post by Misty
The manufacturer specifies a 60 Amp breaker for an Amerec AK10 steam bath generator.  The generator itself draws 41.7 Amps during operation.  Either the breaker, the generator, or the room will have to change.  Let's start by properly sizing your room.  Once we have that, we can discuss your options and any restrictions your home may present.

 82 
 on: October 05, 2015, 10:57:48 PM 
Started by chschram - Last post by chschram
I just moved purchased this condo, and the Amerec steam shower (AK10e) has been here for at least seven years.  Every time I use the steam unit it pops the breaker nine minutes into use.  It is a thirty amp breaker.  Has anyone heard of this problem before?

 83 
 on: October 05, 2015, 06:26:06 PM 
Started by abensky - Last post by abensky
I just finally got my steamist all dialed in and it is giving ne E13 (water fill error) after running for a while and producing no steam. It is definitely getting water because it is pouring it all out the drain line while on. This stops when I turn it off, but I get no steam at all.

Any ideas?

 84 
 on: October 02, 2015, 06:54:00 AM 
Started by jspuud - Last post by Misty
Here is the MW Installation Instructions found in our SteamSaunaBath Technical Library.  If you need something more, our Technical Bathing Specialists are a phone call away and ready to assist you!

800 / 707 - 2862

 85 
 on: September 28, 2015, 08:26:26 PM 
Started by jspuud - Last post by jspuud
Looking for a install manual o wiring diagram?

 86 
 on: September 06, 2015, 06:26:39 PM 
Started by atruman - Last post by atruman
Hello

I am attempting to troubleshoot an SM-11 unit.  The temperature controller does not have any indicators lit.  Water does not appear to be flowing into the unit. The Yellow LED is off, but the other 3 are on. The fuse appears to be intact, but I do not have a VOM with me today.

Thank you for your help.

Alan

 87 
 on: May 14, 2015, 12:09:08 PM 
Started by enterpriseresale - Last post by Misty
The attic installation is no problem as long as there is no risk of the equipment freezing and you leave yourself sufficient access for any service needs.  If you are not creating any traps in the steam line, then your piping run will not be a concern either from what you are describing.  As for pitching the steam line toward the steam head, that is to help purge any water/condensate that may accumulate in the steam line and prevent it from "spitting" out of the steam head while you are bathing as this can be uncomfortable.  We would love to see pictures of your completed steam shower, you can upload them here.

 88 
 on: May 14, 2015, 10:51:48 AM 
Started by enterpriseresale - Last post by enterpriseresale
I had read that putting the steam unit in the attic is ok if insulated.  I have space above the shower to install it.  Looking at the manual it says the steam pipe needs a pitch 1/4 per foot towards steam head?  Also that it can't go down then up because it would trap steam.
My set up would only go down to the base of shower not up again.  The line would be a lot less then the 25 feet recommended.  Probably only 10 to 12 ft
Will this still work?  I already had wiring, drain, and water plumbed to this area in the attic above shower

 89 
 on: May 06, 2015, 08:40:08 AM 
Started by ArtLaw - Last post by miltonblackwoodrw5
Just a heads up, you can use tubs inside a steam room. They add more benefits to a person's health and it gives the best bath experience. Just a plain tub would do the trick. It relieves stress and strains of daily life and it has therapeutic effects that treats diverse areas of the body. Depending on what you prefer, some people are very sophisticated on what kind or design the hot tubs are. I am a hot tub owner and I am satisfied with my hot tub which I bought at Aqualine Hot Tubs. Sorry for the late reply though.

 90 
 on: March 16, 2015, 02:28:58 PM 
Started by the_7th_samurai - Last post by the_7th_samurai
Greetings,

Am in the design stages of building a stand-alone exterior sauna (approx dimensions being 8x8x7).  Will be constructing a mostly cedar structure that will be built with Eastern White cedar (2x4, 2x6, clapboard siding, and tongue & groove 1x4 interior boards).

I've seen several designs that use a similar stick construction with insulation between the studs and foil vapour barrier beneath the tongue and groove interior boards.  In respect to the floor design, since the sauna will not be flush to the ground (in order to construct it at the same height as my existing deck), a concrete floor is not an option.  Instead, I'll be framing a typical 2x6 or 2x8 joist floor. 

My question is if I should build the floor with foil vapour barrier and cedar tongue and groove boards, the same way as the walls or if this would be problematic down the road.  See picture example below:



I'll be installing an 8 to 10 kw heater that will be used for wet sauna use.  Will the cedar floor work in this application or should I explore some sort of rubber or vinyl sub-flooring with removable cedar decking on top?

Thanks for looking.

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